ultimate guide to sunscreen for asian skin

I’ve been doing a deep dive on tinted mineral sunscreens so now you don’t have to go through the research rabbit hole yourself! (Note: I didn’t touch K-beauty since that’s a whole new game)

So why tinted? Why mineral? And why do we need to avoid butyloctyl salicylate? Keep reading.

tinted = no white cast? say no more.

According to a Harvard health review, “tinted sunscreens have been found to reduce melasma more than non-tinted, broad-spectrum sunscreens.” Before, I would not even consider tinted sunscreen – why feel like you have makeup on all the time? But here’s why I’m all for tinted sunscreens now:

1. Blocks Visible Light: Your SPF filters blocks the UV lights (UVA, UVB) and UVC is mostly blocked by the ozone layer. However, visible light (the part of light that can be perceived by the human eye, ie. sunlight) is not blocked by your SPF, and it penetrates much deeper than UV light. The article also says, “to block visible light, a sunscreen must be visible on the skin,” hence why we need tinted.
2. Reduces Hyperpigmentation: According to the same Harvard article, the tint also helps reduce hyperpigmentation, which any Asian woman knows ‘sun spots’ are bound to show up at some point in her thirties.
3. No nano-particles: Before my rabbit hole, I had no idea that nano-particles exist (ugh, another thing to look out for in the never-ending ingredient list). What happens is that particles in broad-spectrum, non-tinted sunscreens are ‘nano-sized’ to reduce the white cast. Which leaves me to my last point, tinted suncreens are superior because they offer…
4. No White Cast! This is probably the best short-term benefit: not leaving you to look like a pale ghost. Plus, because of the iron oxides, it doesn’t matter what skin colour you have, it blends in well with everyone. No more trying to figure out which tint matches your skin.

Note: For full transparency (not coverage haha), my fellow writer friend and SPF fanatic shared this Guardian article with me, which journalist Sali Hughes says that in order for tinted sunscreens to be effective, you need to apply “two longest finger lengths… for face and neck,” which would leave one looking makeup-cakey even if there’s no white cast. She suggests applying tinted over a regular sunscreen. I’m going to apply as much as I feel is necessary so fingers crossed it works.

mineral sunscreens have no down time

Mineral sunscreens create a physical barrier between your skin and sunlight, whereas chemical sunscreens are absorbed into your skin. How do the chemicals work? According to the Cleveland Clinic, “they work as a sponge to absorb the UV rays and then convert them into heat, which is released from your skin. So look for active minerals like zinc oxide (mostly) and titanium dioxide. I prefer sunscreens that have around 20% zinc.

Here’s why you should consider a mineral sunscreen:

1. Better for dry, sensitive skin, & eczema: So many of my cousins and Asian friends and their babies have eczema. So choose mineral sunscreen, which is gentler on the skin.
2. Doesn’t Get Absorbed Into Your Skin: Sure, the active ingredients have passed the FDA’s tests, but they also permit a lot of other things European countries and Canada doesn’t allow. And this 2019 study found that some chemicals get released into your bloodstream, causing side effects like rashes. As someone who already has eczema, I don’t need more rashes. The most talked about chemicals is oxybenzone because it’s considered a hormone disrupter, but there hasn’t been conclusive evidence that it’s harmful to humans.” I’ll leave this one up to you since it requires much more scientific research. We’ll just have to make the best call with the info we currently have.
3. Works Immediately: You know how you’re used to hearing that you need to apply sunscreen 20 mins before heading out? No such requirement when you have sunscreens that act as a physical barrier! It’s the difference between waiting for your electric stove burners to heat up while someone with a gas top can start cooking right away (not that you’ll be cooking in the sun).

beware this sneaky chemical in mineral sunscreen

Check yo’ packaging. I’ve come across SO MANY mineral sunscreens I wanted to try but they had this one sneaky ingredient: butyloctyl salicylate. So what the heck is it? This one little guy contains chemical UV filters. Some refer to it as an “SPF booster,” boosting an SPF’s absorbency of UV light, but it has to trigger a chemical reaction first. Huh. Sounds like a chemical to me, no? But it is safe so it shouldn’t change anything unless your skin is sensitive to salicylates. Or, if me, you prefer to have 100% physical sunscreen. Check out Michelle Wong’s (she’s a big name in the science of beauty) post for more info.

which sunscreen fits all these criteria?

Okay, so I only did as much research until I found 3 I was satisfied with and personally tried. Here’s my hot take on a ‘good’ sunscreen that fulfills all these criteria:

For the Sephora Lover: Live Tinted’s Hueguard 3-in-1 Mineral SunScreen, Moisturizer, Primer, SPF 30

I love this one so much I bought two tubes. Felt slightly guilty for indulging, but sorry not sorry. Girl needs a second tube in her purse! It goes on really nicely and although I don’t know if it acts like a really good moisturizer and primer, it goes on really nicely. It’s got 18.23% zinc oxide, iron oxides, and 30 SPF is all you need! Kinda random but there’s something about this tube that works for me. I love that it’s an upside down tube that has a pump and cap. Bonus: this brand was created by a woman of colour, who wanted to “create products for hyperpigmentation and clean makeup that shows up on everyone.” Maybe I’m a sucker but it brings me such joy to support an Asian business who sees me and understands my hyperpigmentation issues!

Value: $48 for 50ml = $0.96/ml

So. worth. it. But for transparency, I only bought two because they were on sale for $35 ea.

For the Drugstore Shopper: Avene’s Tinted Mineral Fluid SPF 50+

This one was a random find. I wasn’t even thinking about drug store brands, but when I asked my dermatologist about her sunscreen recos, she gave me a bunch of samples and this one happened to fit the bill. It has 14.7% zinc oxide, no butyloctyl salicylate, and goes on beautifully too. Personally, not as big of a fan on this shape of packaging, but that’s truly a subjective call.

Value: $40 for 40ml = $1/ml

Interesting that the drugstore brand is more expensive than the Sephora pick. However, it probably goes on sale more regularly at a drug store.

For the naturalist: Lavigne Tapezco BB Luminesence Creme

This one is a hidden gem because it’s not marketed as a sunscreen, but it has the active ingredient of 14% zinc oxide! No iron oxides though, but that’s not a make-or-break marker. What I love about this brand is that the ingredients are all natural. Instead of a bunch of chemicals you need to sift through, you see ingredients such as jojoba oil and lavender 🙂 That’s why it smells *so* good and applies like a jelly-creme. Bonus: it’s made in Vancouver by a mother-daughter team, and it’s been around for 20+ years! (Thanks to my acupuncturist who recommended it.)

Value: $34 for 30 ml = $1.13

A bit pricier per ml, but I think it’s well worth it for all the natural ingredients and amazing scent.

Note: Since there’s no SPF rating, but it does have an active ingredient, you should still use a white sunscreen below this Bb Cream.

*I thought the tinted would make a difference to covering the white cast, but the ThinkBaby sunscreen is actually isn’t too white!

xo, Miranda